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Thread: Plants turning yellow

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    SCAPE Member Just Planted kqchung's Avatar
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    Plants turning yellow

    Hi I was wondering if someone could help me out so, some of my plants are turning yellow and I have a co2 system. The substrate is just black sand. I didn't think I was going to add so many plants but I did I couldn't help it lol. I just bought thrive+ and I was wondering if thats good enough. I was reading the thrive+ and it said I should get a ghost booster. I use to water for the tank cause of the apistos I have in it. Should I get a gh booster?

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    Water is Life 5000 posts, Officially addicted to SCAPE! Zenzu's Avatar
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    If you are using R/O water you need GH booster to add calmag back to the water column. Thrive is an all in one macro and micro it should work fine.

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    SCAPE Member Just Planted kqchung's Avatar
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    I'm a noob at this haha what's a good GH booster?

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    Water is Life 5000 posts, Officially addicted to SCAPE! Zenzu's Avatar
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    Equalibrium, African Cichlid Conditioner, Salty Shrimp, Nilocg GH booster etc. etc. they all have the same ingredients, calmag + K + trace.
    Last edited by Zenzu; 06-10-2018 at 01:55 PM.

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    Water is Life 5000 posts, Officially addicted to SCAPE! Zenzu's Avatar
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    Dose enough per volume to get GH between 2 and 5.

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    SCAPE Member Just Planted kqchung's Avatar
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    it wont kill my apistos right?

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    Water is Life 5000 posts, Officially addicted to SCAPE! Zenzu's Avatar
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    I don't see why it would... What is your concern?

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    SCAPE Member Just Planted kqchung's Avatar
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    altering the ph and stuff or that wont happen?

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    Water is Life 5000 posts, Officially addicted to SCAPE! Zenzu's Avatar
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    GH does not neccessarily affect PH. GH can raise KH, but if you are dosing the minimum of 2 GH that I listed above, you'll still likely maintain 0 KH which in turn would not affect your PH. If you have further concerns I'm sure google would be able to clear it up for you. Simply search Apisto + (insert sp) + water parameters and it should list PH ranges, GH ranges, KH ranges. iirc most apisto will tolerate up to 5 GH and 1-2 KH as long as temp, ph,kh, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate etc are all in order.

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    SCAPE Member SCAPEr kberg2498's Avatar
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    As said above if you ware using RO water, there is no nutrients in the water. All those dissolved solids are nutrients that our plants eat. Now the problem with using RO or RODI water is that there is no buffers in the water to maintain a stable PH. Carbonate hardness is basically the amount of PH stability your tank has. GH is just in general how hard your water is. Both of those measurements are seperate from each other which means having a high KH and a low GH is possible and so it is inversely. The big mistake a lot of people make when remineralizing is only adding GH. Now another big issue is people who want to control the PH in a planted tank. Most buffers on the market are phosphate buffers. Phosphate will accelerate the growth of algae.... So you want KH buffers.

    THE NUMBER ONE, SAFEST WAY TO USE RODI WATER TO LOWER PH IS TO MIX IT WITH TAP. Yeah you won't be able to get super acidic levels of PH, it can significantly lower your PH. The good part about this way is your plants still get their nutrients and its far easier to keep consistently. Figure out a % mix that you think is the PH you want. Now do that mix every time. Fill up your RO reservoir to that marked line and then fill it up with a hose the rest of the way. Use it for a water change til empty or dump it out. Refill with RO water over a day, Repeat.


    Now if you want to use KH buffers you have very few options. When I did it, I used Seachem Equilibrium/AlkalineBuff/AcidBuff.

    Here is what I can say about doing it the seachem way. (That is using only **KH** buffers and Equilibrium. Using phosphate buffers could lead to algae and other problems Hence why 99% of PH buffers say not for planted aquariums on the back.) Equilibrium is very messy and the timing is crucial to create a proper mix of these three. And you MUST do it in this order or you will have inconsistent results.

    First I mix in Equilibrium. Let that mix for an hour with a powerhead in a bottom of a RO trashcan. Then add your Alkaline Buffer and wait another hour. Now prepare to do your water change. Add the corresponding Acid Buffer and give it 20 minutes to mix. Measure the PH and add the new water to the aquarium.

    The ratio to Alk/Acid buffer is on the back of both bottles. To get a perfect 7ph you add half as much buffer in a 1:2 ratio. Acid:Alk. So you will typically go through Alkaline buffer twice as fast as the acid buffer.

    Thing you Should NOT do:
    Premix both buffers and use them at the same time
    Mix PH before adding Equilibrium
    Let your mix sit too long (It gasses off and ends up changing PH)
    Using an airstone in your mix.
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    A Lot of this stuff is also not on the back of the bottles and is usually not considered unless you look up people who have had bad mixes on their forum lol https://i.imgur.com/0GvP393.png

    The biggest reason why I started to do this was originally I had a stigma towards chloramine in our LA water. My dad had kept aquariums in the past and he used bottled water to do his waterchanges. Looking around when I first started I knew I wanted to maintain my tank alot better than his 30 gal with a balashark, 2 angels, and tiger barbs. I tested my water and sure enough the API kit picked up on the ammonium in the water. I had looked up everything. I got bottled ammonia and tested and tested and tested. Lost about 4 guppies the first week and immediately put the blame on the water. I wanted quality so the first thing I did was spend 350$ on a Bulk Reef Supply 150gpd unit with 6 stage filtration. Way overkill for filling up a 30gal trashcan every few weeks. Anyways I researched around and found videos on why Phosphate buffers were bad and the ways to buffer PH. Ended up with this mix of chemicals. After using it for awhile and losing a few fish here and there I eventually determined it was the mix after I checked my cherry shrimp 10gal that was at a PH of 5. I still have those super shrimp today. I immediately slowly switched back to tapwater after realizing there is no way people are doing this in my neighborhood just to keep fish. I would not recommend mixing your RODI water to anyone unless you absolutely have to. I am keeping discus in our tapwater just fine and I don't see the need. Even my wild caught fish are doing great in our high PH once acclimated. I would do it again maybe if I had wild caught discus. I don't know. Messing with ph is stupid. I even heard some rare corydoras only breed in lower ph yet here I am with my cories laying eggs every week.... Hell even my discus are laying eggs now....

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    SCAPE Member 1000 posts, Semi-Pro SCAPEr Bongox3's Avatar
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    On another note, what apistos are you raising?

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    SCAPE Member Just Planted kqchung's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kberg2498 View Post
    As said above if you ware using RO water, there is no nutrients in the water. All those dissolved solids are nutrients that our plants eat. Now the problem with using RO or RODI water is that there is no buffers in the water to maintain a stable PH. Carbonate hardness is basically the amount of PH stability your tank has. GH is just in general how hard your water is. Both of those measurements are seperate from each other which means having a high KH and a low GH is possible and so it is inversely. The big mistake a lot of people make when remineralizing is only adding GH. Now another big issue is people who want to control the PH in a planted tank. Most buffers on the market are phosphate buffers. Phosphate will accelerate the growth of algae.... So you want KH buffers.

    THE NUMBER ONE, SAFEST WAY TO USE RODI WATER TO LOWER PH IS TO MIX IT WITH TAP. Yeah you won't be able to get super acidic levels of PH, it can significantly lower your PH. The good part about this way is your plants still get their nutrients and its far easier to keep consistently. Figure out a % mix that you think is the PH you want. Now do that mix every time. Fill up your RO reservoir to that marked line and then fill it up with a hose the rest of the way. Use it for a water change til empty or dump it out. Refill with RO water over a day, Repeat.


    Now if you want to use KH buffers you have very few options. When I did it, I used Seachem Equilibrium/AlkalineBuff/AcidBuff.

    Here is what I can say about doing it the seachem way. (That is using only **KH** buffers and Equilibrium. Using phosphate buffers could lead to algae and other problems Hence why 99% of PH buffers say not for planted aquariums on the back.) Equilibrium is very messy and the timing is crucial to create a proper mix of these three. And you MUST do it in this order or you will have inconsistent results.

    First I mix in Equilibrium. Let that mix for an hour with a powerhead in a bottom of a RO trashcan. Then add your Alkaline Buffer and wait another hour. Now prepare to do your water change. Add the corresponding Acid Buffer and give it 20 minutes to mix. Measure the PH and add the new water to the aquarium.

    The ratio to Alk/Acid buffer is on the back of both bottles. To get a perfect 7ph you add half as much buffer in a 1:2 ratio. Acid:Alk. So you will typically go through Alkaline buffer twice as fast as the acid buffer.

    Thing you Should NOT do:
    Premix both buffers and use them at the same time
    Mix PH before adding Equilibrium
    Let your mix sit too long (It gasses off and ends up changing PH)
    Using an airstone in your mix.
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    A Lot of this stuff is also not on the back of the bottles and is usually not considered unless you look up people who have had bad mixes on their forum lol https://i.imgur.com/0GvP393.png

    The biggest reason why I started to do this was originally I had a stigma towards chloramine in our LA water. My dad had kept aquariums in the past and he used bottled water to do his waterchanges. Looking around when I first started I knew I wanted to maintain my tank alot better than his 30 gal with a balashark, 2 angels, and tiger barbs. I tested my water and sure enough the API kit picked up on the ammonium in the water. I had looked up everything. I got bottled ammonia and tested and tested and tested. Lost about 4 guppies the first week and immediately put the blame on the water. I wanted quality so the first thing I did was spend 350$ on a Bulk Reef Supply 150gpd unit with 6 stage filtration. Way overkill for filling up a 30gal trashcan every few weeks. Anyways I researched around and found videos on why Phosphate buffers were bad and the ways to buffer PH. Ended up with this mix of chemicals. After using it for awhile and losing a few fish here and there I eventually determined it was the mix after I checked my cherry shrimp 10gal that was at a PH of 5. I still have those super shrimp today. I immediately slowly switched back to tapwater after realizing there is no way people are doing this in my neighborhood just to keep fish. I would not recommend mixing your RODI water to anyone unless you absolutely have to. I am keeping discus in our tapwater just fine and I don't see the need. Even my wild caught fish are doing great in our high PH once acclimated. I would do it again maybe if I had wild caught discus. I don't know. Messing with ph is stupid. I even heard some rare corydoras only breed in lower ph yet here I am with my cories laying eggs every week.... Hell even my discus are laying eggs now....
    Oh wow ya Orange County water is pretty hard at about 8 at least for me thats what I was getting when I tested it. I had a ro buddy system laying around and tested it with that and got my ph coming out at like 6.5ish so I started do that and noticed my plants going yellow on me so i knew they werent getting enough nurtients so i was looking for something i could replace it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bongox3 View Post
    On another note, what apistos are you raising?
    I keep apistogramma cacatuoides triple reds and white/gold, Apistogramma Blue steel.

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    SCAPE Member SCAPEr kberg2498's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kqchung View Post
    Oh wow ya Orange County water is pretty hard at about 8 at least for me thats what I was getting when I tested it. I had a ro buddy system laying around and tested it with that and got my ph coming out at like 6.5ish so I started do that and noticed my plants going yellow on me so i knew they werent getting enough nurtients so i was looking for something i could replace it.



    I keep apistogramma cacatuoides triple reds and white/gold, Apistogramma Blue steel.
    Ph does not equal hardness. We(LA county) have 7.8 ph because of chemicals they add into the water at the processing plant. We have pretty soft water actually at around 120tds and 2 to 4 Gh and kh. The ph is high from whatever chemical they put into the water to treat it. Most of our water comes from reservoirs that are fed from ice caps. It's very clean compared to places that have well water. Just the high ph kinda sucks.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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    Water is Life 5000 posts, Officially addicted to SCAPE! Zenzu's Avatar
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    This whole time I thought you had expensive or rare apistos. Cacas can be kept and bred is socal tap.

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    SCAPE Member Just Planted kqchung's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zenzu View Post
    This whole time I thought you had expensive or rare apistos. Cacas can be kept and bred is socal tap.
    I wish I had expensive apistos but not at this time. I had bought my first pair of cacas and tried socal tap water but they quickly died right after I added them. So I switched it to ro water

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    Water is Life 5000 posts, Officially addicted to SCAPE! Zenzu's Avatar
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    Did you treat your tap with tap water conditioner and add them to a cycled tank? I bought my first pair from Mark in auction many years ago, put em in a tank with cycled tap at 79 degrees. The next morning I went to check on them I had eggs in the tank.

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    SCAPE Member Just Planted kqchung's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zenzu View Post
    Did you treat your tap with tap water conditioner and add them to a cycled tank? I bought my first pair from Mark in auction many years ago, put em in a tank with cycled tap at 79 degrees. The next morning I went to check on them I had eggs in the tank.
    yes I did and the tank was cycled for about 2-3 months ish. I kept losing fish and couldnt figure it out. until I began using ro water i stopped losing fish.

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    Water is Life 5000 posts, Officially addicted to SCAPE! Zenzu's Avatar
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    That sounds horrible. Glad the whole R/O thing worked out for you.

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    SCAPE Member 1000 posts, Semi-Pro SCAPEr Bongox3's Avatar
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    Guess a lot depends on the conditions the fish are kept prior to purchase... Mark breeds his, and they are raised from fry already acclimated to tap... I just got my panduro to breed only upon mimicking they’re natural habitats... they were wild caught, so my ph hovers at around 6 or lower, very soft water... more rare apistos (which I’d loved to get one day) are usually going to be wild, or close to wild caught and thus more sensitive...

    Those three apistos are very cool and luckily very hardy... so many are captive breed now, it’s hard to determine appropriate water conditions... only true indicator is seeing them color up and exhibit spawning behavior... if you see it, your water is perfect for the ones you have...regardless what region they first came from...always ask the person you purchase from how they were kept...

    What type of plants are you raising? Many of the commonly found plants in scaping won’t tolerate the natural water conditions of apistos (soft and acidic)...many apistos come from areas of sparse aquatic vegetation...doing well in water with lots of decaying terrestrial plant leaves (IAL, guava, mango, etc...)

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    SCAPE Member Just Planted kqchung's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bongox3 View Post
    Guess a lot depends on the conditions the fish are kept prior to purchase... Mark breeds his, and they are raised from fry already acclimated to tap... I just got my panduro to breed only upon mimicking they’re natural habitats... they were wild caught, so my ph hovers at around 6 or lower, very soft water... more rare apistos (which I’d loved to get one day) are usually going to be wild, or close to wild caught and thus more sensitive...

    Those three apistos are very cool and luckily very hardy... so many are captive breed now, it’s hard to determine appropriate water conditions... only true indicator is seeing them color up and exhibit spawning behavior... if you see it, your water is perfect for the ones you have...regardless what region they first came from...always ask the person you purchase from how they were kept...

    What type of plants are you raising? Many of the commonly found plants in scaping won’t tolerate the natural water conditions of apistos (soft and acidic)...many apistos come from areas of sparse aquatic vegetation...doing well in water with lots of decaying terrestrial plant leaves (IAL, guava, mango, etc...)
    just java fern, anubias, cryptocoryne, java moss and another plant I dont know, my red tiger lotus died (((

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